A Novel, Multifunctional, Natural-Based Emollient: An Exhaustive Characterization of Sharofeel DS

What is an Emollient? 

Emollients are multifunctional, water-insoluble raw materials used in cosmetology, dermo-cosmetology, and dermatology [1,2], definable as cosmetic ingredients which help to maintain the soft, smooth, and pliable appearance of the skin. Emollients function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in the stratum corneum, according to the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) dictionary [3,4].They are widely used in cosmetic formulations with different applications, such as skin care, hair care, toiletries, and makeup.

Emollients are classified into four main groups based on their chemical structure: hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, esters, and silicone derivatives[5]. Hydrocarbons (e.g., mineral oil, alkanes) can originate from animal, vegetable, or mineral sources. Fatty alcohols (e.g., octyldodecanol, cetearylalcohol) are derived from either vegetable or synthetic sources. Ester-based emollients (e.g., isononyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate) can be naturally occurring or synthesized from alcohols and fatty acids. Silicone derivatives are synthetically produced from silicon [6], oxygen, and alkyl groups.

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What Role Does an Emollient Have in a Formulation?

Emollients play a key role in formulation performance, influencing texture, hydration, lubricity, active ingredient delivery, spreadability, absorption, and overall product appeal. Their effectiveness depends on their molecular structure [2,7], making it crucial to select the right type based on the intended cosmetic application.

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What Makes Sharofeel DS Different?

Driven by the rising demand for sustainable cosmetic raw materials (USD 2.66 billion in 2023), this study introduces Sharofeel DS (Dioctyldodecyl Succinate), a certified ester-based emollient with a Natural Origin Index of 1. Sourced from naturally derived reactants, Sharofeel DS is designed for skin care, hair care, and makeup applications.

Sharofeel DS enhances viscosity and rheological behavior, with its performance varying by emulsifier type. Safety tests confirm its suitability for cosmetics, while superior occlusive properties help maintain skin hydration for 60 minutes, outperforming other substances. Its sensory qualities resemble triglycerides, esters, and long-chain fatty alcohols in emulsions. Additionally, Sharofeel DS improves wax formulations by lowering melting points, preserving crystalline phases, and preventing separation, especially during cooling. These attributes highlight its versatility and effectiveness in cosmetic formulations

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Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 58

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